One of the days after work when the bike had been tampered with I noticed that the speedo was no longer working.
As it says in the Haynes, always look for the simplest cause for the problem. So I required a new speedo cable. None of the shops I called into had the cable I was looking for but the place I bought my first bike said they could get the cable in the next week. That was in December.
Until now I have been gauging my speed by looking at the rev counter and knowing what gear I'm in. For example, 4th gear @ 4,000rpm is about 60 km/h. Last week I bit the bullet and bought a new cable on ebay. It cost around 20 euro and was delivered this morning. Took 5 minutes to fit and now the speedo (not to mention the tripometer!) is working fine.
I'll take come photographs and do up a post on how to change the speedo cable soon.
Quick update
So I haven't gotten the chance to do much with the bike in the last few weeks except for give it an occasional clean.
The weather has been altogether cack the last few weeks too so my lovely CB is fast becoming my dirty winter hack!
Have been ordering parts and have them all ready to go but just don't have the time and can't get the breaks to get them fitted. Currently in line are:
Going to have the brake pads done this week or else next week when I get paid. Would do these myself except on my daily driver I'd rather have something done professionally. Might replace the pads on the dt myself though (as soon as I get that project off the ground).
Hopefully getting a workshop sorted in the coming months. Until next time...
The weather has been altogether cack the last few weeks too so my lovely CB is fast becoming my dirty winter hack!
Have been ordering parts and have them all ready to go but just don't have the time and can't get the breaks to get them fitted. Currently in line are:
- New levers
- Clutch cable
- Brake pads - both front and rear
- an easy disconnect Fuel Coupling
- new coolant
Going to have the brake pads done this week or else next week when I get paid. Would do these myself except on my daily driver I'd rather have something done professionally. Might replace the pads on the dt myself though (as soon as I get that project off the ground).
Hopefully getting a workshop sorted in the coming months. Until next time...
GarageNight.tv
Just came across this website: http://www.garagenight.tv/. Haven't had an opportunity to look at the videos yet but I like the idea.
What I wouldn't give to have a workshop to do work on my bikes in... The carpark of an apartment block isn't the most ideal workplace! :-)
What I wouldn't give to have a workshop to do work on my bikes in... The carpark of an apartment block isn't the most ideal workplace! :-)
Used Bike Checklist
Just found this when I was sorting out some mail... It's from the maintenance course I did last year (2007).
Tyres:
- Thread depth (legal minimum of 1mm, in reality should be much more)
- Sidewall condition (check for cracks, rips, gouges or damage)
Wheels:
- Check for loose spokes (if applicable), flat spots and trueness (with each wheel raised, spin them). For the front wheel put the bike on the centre stand and get another person to lean on the back and for the rear it should be enough to have the bike on the centre stand. If there is no centre stand you can balance the bike on the side stand carefully and carry this out.
- Check bearings (with the wheel raised look for side to side movement)
Steering:
- Check headrace (with wheel raised pull back and forward on forks)
- Check control cables (check all for ease of movement and free play)
- Check fork seals (check for oil under and around seal covers)
- Check wheel alignment (run a chord or string from the front wheel to the rear)
Electrical system:
- Check electric start (engine should turn over quickly and start instantly)
- General electrics (check all lights [indicators, main beam, dipped beam, high beam, brake light, number plate light], horn, kill switch, passing light (if present), oil pressure light, neutral light)
- Charging system (with high beams on allow to idle, lights should brighten when revved)
Engine:
- Check engine oil level (oil should be filled to upper level)
- Check exhaust fumes (should be colourless if 4 stroke, slightly blue if a two stroke)
- Check engine noise (should be quiet with no chain or tapping like noises)
Drive system:
- Chain/sprockets (check chain tension and slack. Pull chain at back off rear sprocket [you shouldn't be able to do this!], check condition of sprocket teeth)
- Drive shaft (check for excess movement in wheel and whine when driven)
Brake systems:
- Hydraulic (check oil level, check pads for wear and check for oil leaks and freeness of wheel. there should be a slight brake drag.)
- Mechanical (check brake arm wear indicator, check brake cable for snapped strands and dragging)
Clutch system:
- Hydraulic (check oil levels and leaks, check for clutch drag and slipping)
- Mechanical (check cable for snapped strands, clutch drag and slipping)
Fuel system:
- Carbs/injectors (check for leaks and smell of fumes, start from cold with full choke, turn off choke and engine should idle)
This is by no means a complete list in my opinion but if you're buying a bike and all of these look good then chances are the bike is ok.
Tyres:
- Thread depth (legal minimum of 1mm, in reality should be much more)
- Sidewall condition (check for cracks, rips, gouges or damage)
Wheels:
- Check for loose spokes (if applicable), flat spots and trueness (with each wheel raised, spin them). For the front wheel put the bike on the centre stand and get another person to lean on the back and for the rear it should be enough to have the bike on the centre stand. If there is no centre stand you can balance the bike on the side stand carefully and carry this out.
- Check bearings (with the wheel raised look for side to side movement)
Steering:
- Check headrace (with wheel raised pull back and forward on forks)
- Check control cables (check all for ease of movement and free play)
- Check fork seals (check for oil under and around seal covers)
- Check wheel alignment (run a chord or string from the front wheel to the rear)
Electrical system:
- Check electric start (engine should turn over quickly and start instantly)
- General electrics (check all lights [indicators, main beam, dipped beam, high beam, brake light, number plate light], horn, kill switch, passing light (if present), oil pressure light, neutral light)
- Charging system (with high beams on allow to idle, lights should brighten when revved)
Engine:
- Check engine oil level (oil should be filled to upper level)
- Check exhaust fumes (should be colourless if 4 stroke, slightly blue if a two stroke)
- Check engine noise (should be quiet with no chain or tapping like noises)
Drive system:
- Chain/sprockets (check chain tension and slack. Pull chain at back off rear sprocket [you shouldn't be able to do this!], check condition of sprocket teeth)
- Drive shaft (check for excess movement in wheel and whine when driven)
Brake systems:
- Hydraulic (check oil level, check pads for wear and check for oil leaks and freeness of wheel. there should be a slight brake drag.)
- Mechanical (check brake arm wear indicator, check brake cable for snapped strands and dragging)
Clutch system:
- Hydraulic (check oil levels and leaks, check for clutch drag and slipping)
- Mechanical (check cable for snapped strands, clutch drag and slipping)
Fuel system:
- Carbs/injectors (check for leaks and smell of fumes, start from cold with full choke, turn off choke and engine should idle)
This is by no means a complete list in my opinion but if you're buying a bike and all of these look good then chances are the bike is ok.
Thieving little...thieves
Came out of work on Friday to the bike. Took the locks off it and switched on the ignition. Noticed first that the bike wasn't in neutral and next that the killswitch was set to 'run' (I always switch it off). First thought was, some kid was sitting on the bike. Down the road a bit though I noticed that the rev counter was working but that the speedo cable was broken... *sigh*
I'll have to get a new speedo cable for it and look into getting either an alarm or an immobiliser fitted too. Bah! Annoying!!
I'll have to get a new speedo cable for it and look into getting either an alarm or an immobiliser fitted too. Bah! Annoying!!
Bar ends and indicators
Apologies for the lack of updates. Have been really busy in work. Haven't even had the chance to give the bike a clean or winter prep yet. Anyway, to fix up some of the damage done from when I dropped the bike I got Carbon bar ends and small oval indicators from Halfords.
Two stumbling blocks arose when I got around to doing the repairs... The indicators were 23w (but still 12v) so I wasn't sure if they would work or not. They also had two wires (one black, one black with a white stripe) which didn't match the colours on the bike. In addition, the bar end on the left hand side was spinning but wouldn't come out. I posted to biker.ie to get a bit of advice about the indicators and the lads put me on the right track.
Honda's in general have:
- Green = Earth
- Orange = Live (LHS)
- Light Blue = Live (RHS)
After talking to one of the lads in Northside Motorcycles I found out it didn't matter which wire went to which on the new ones, the indicator relay would take care of it. In the end I put the black/white wire into earth and the black wire into live on both sides.
Replacing the indicators is easy enough but there are a few bolts which need to be undone. The headlight assembly needs to come off for the front indicators and the saddle, grab rail, rear bars (don't know the name for these, they're highlighted in the photo) and tail unit (seat cowl for ye yanks) will have to come off for the rear indicators to be done. Here are instructions on how to remove the tail unit and also how to dismantle the headlight assembly (both todo for the moment, sorry!)
The bar ends annoyed me somewhat. The one on the right hand side screwed out straight away leaving the handlebar insert in place. Because the left hand one was bent though, it meant that not matter how much I screwed it counterclockwise (lefty loosey, righty tighty!!) the bar end wouldn't budge. Eventually I took a hacksaw to the bar end and it fell away with a satisfying *ping*.
Bar end weights aid in the steering of the bike and vibration in the handlebars. I was worried that they might affect the handling of the bike but so far they don't seem to have changed the feel much and they look a lot better than the old ones. If you want to know the theory behind bar end weights, Manic Salamander has a Bar End FAQ.
The old bar ends:
The new ones:
(Would ya look at the filth of that front caliper... must get that cleaned up and sort out some new brake pads!)
The new indicators are a lot smaller than the old ones (which look like elephants ears when you compare them) but after a while I got used to the look of them and now I think they actually quite suit the bike. Here's a comparison pic for you... (excuse the rubbish lighting in the new pictures, it was twilight when I was taking them...I'll try to take some better pictures during the daytime soon).
Front indicator comparison:
Rear indicator comparison:
Now I'm wondering do I keep the headlight the same or change it for twin "streetfighter" headlights? Ah, where will the spending end!! The other option there is either to get the current headlight rechromed or to have it media blasted and to paint/powdercoat it black...
Two stumbling blocks arose when I got around to doing the repairs... The indicators were 23w (but still 12v) so I wasn't sure if they would work or not. They also had two wires (one black, one black with a white stripe) which didn't match the colours on the bike. In addition, the bar end on the left hand side was spinning but wouldn't come out. I posted to biker.ie to get a bit of advice about the indicators and the lads put me on the right track.
Honda's in general have:
- Green = Earth
- Orange = Live (LHS)
- Light Blue = Live (RHS)
After talking to one of the lads in Northside Motorcycles I found out it didn't matter which wire went to which on the new ones, the indicator relay would take care of it. In the end I put the black/white wire into earth and the black wire into live on both sides.
Replacing the indicators is easy enough but there are a few bolts which need to be undone. The headlight assembly needs to come off for the front indicators and the saddle, grab rail, rear bars (don't know the name for these, they're highlighted in the photo) and tail unit (seat cowl for ye yanks) will have to come off for the rear indicators to be done. Here are instructions on how to remove the tail unit and also how to dismantle the headlight assembly (both todo for the moment, sorry!)
The bar ends annoyed me somewhat. The one on the right hand side screwed out straight away leaving the handlebar insert in place. Because the left hand one was bent though, it meant that not matter how much I screwed it counterclockwise (lefty loosey, righty tighty!!) the bar end wouldn't budge. Eventually I took a hacksaw to the bar end and it fell away with a satisfying *ping*.
Bar end weights aid in the steering of the bike and vibration in the handlebars. I was worried that they might affect the handling of the bike but so far they don't seem to have changed the feel much and they look a lot better than the old ones. If you want to know the theory behind bar end weights, Manic Salamander has a Bar End FAQ.
The old bar ends:
The new ones:
(Would ya look at the filth of that front caliper... must get that cleaned up and sort out some new brake pads!)
The new indicators are a lot smaller than the old ones (which look like elephants ears when you compare them) but after a while I got used to the look of them and now I think they actually quite suit the bike. Here's a comparison pic for you... (excuse the rubbish lighting in the new pictures, it was twilight when I was taking them...I'll try to take some better pictures during the daytime soon).
Front indicator comparison:
Rear indicator comparison:
Now I'm wondering do I keep the headlight the same or change it for twin "streetfighter" headlights? Ah, where will the spending end!! The other option there is either to get the current headlight rechromed or to have it media blasted and to paint/powdercoat it black...
To windshield or not to windshield
So, while looking at repairing the indicators after I dropped the bike I had to remove the headlight. When I started loosening the bolts (12mm bolts, one each side) I noticed the windshield was coming loose. Afraid I had broken one of the fixings when I dropped the bike last Sunday I took hold of it from the top in order to keep undoing the headlight bolt and the entire windshield came off the bike in my hands.
Only when I looked at it did I realise that it was that way by design and that I hadn't broken it *phew*! I've kept it off the bike for the moment. It certainly makes the CB look a lot meaner but the difference while riding is noticable. At speeds of 50/60 km/h (30/40 mph for you imperial nuts) there is a noticable pressure on my chest. Not like someone punching me but a consistent push from the wind all the same. Once I sort the indicators I'll probably put the windshield back on (after a good polish and clean up of course).
Here are some pics for those interested:
Front:
From the side:
Detail of the fitting that slots onto the headlight bolt:
I'll throw up some pics comparing the bike with and without the windshield soon too.
Edited 25/10/08: Headlight bolts are 12mm not 14mm
Only when I looked at it did I realise that it was that way by design and that I hadn't broken it *phew*! I've kept it off the bike for the moment. It certainly makes the CB look a lot meaner but the difference while riding is noticable. At speeds of 50/60 km/h (30/40 mph for you imperial nuts) there is a noticable pressure on my chest. Not like someone punching me but a consistent push from the wind all the same. Once I sort the indicators I'll probably put the windshield back on (after a good polish and clean up of course).
Here are some pics for those interested:
Front:
From the side:
Detail of the fitting that slots onto the headlight bolt:
I'll throw up some pics comparing the bike with and without the windshield soon too.
Edited 25/10/08: Headlight bolts are 12mm not 14mm
