Ok, so I haven't updated the blog since February 27th. The bike has been off the road since January 27th... When I changed the Chain and Sprockets I brought the bike down to TQS Racing, got the fork seals and brake pads done and got the chain riveted properly (after the cheapo riveter breaking...).
Rear pads didn't need replacing, front ones I replaced with HH sintered pads. Tom warned me that the front brakes felt a little lumpy but it could just be a case of running them in. On a quick test spin back from his workshop I felt they were lumpy and immediately got the idea of replacing the disc. Bought an EBC disc for the front and changed it over a weekend (must check my camera to see if I took photos, don't think I did though) and thanked myself for having bought an impact driver and a torque wrench in Halfords last year!
Immediately when I took off the front disc and placed it on top of the new one it was apparent that the disc had warped. I hadn't noticed it with the old pads so I imagine that they had been worn in with the warp already present.
I also purchased a set of R&G sliders (which on the CB replace the front engine mount) so I set to work trying to get the front engine mount out. Bad idea! Firstly, the nut on the engine mount looked like a sabre-tooth something or other had a go at it at some point in the past. What was a 16 nut was rung. I overcame this by using a 15 which I hammered onto the nut with a rubber mallet. Took about a half hour to get the blasted thing off. Then I proceed to break a socket wrench belonging to my old man (which I replaced with a Draper socket for him! Thanks for being understanding dad!) and I bent another cross wrench. Headed down to Halfords and bought myself a breaker bar to see if that would do the trick. No joy.
In the process I managed to ring the bolt. So I left the bike sitting idle (I know, a sin, right?!) until I could afford to drop it round to Tom again. Dropped in the bike a week or two ago in order to give my stress levels a break and my wallet a bit of a workout.
Still waiting on the bike back. Can't wait to get out for a spin... Devil's work is in idle hands though so I have been toying with the idea of converting my DT from dirtbike to SM (although how Super can a 125 SuperMoto be?)
Will update soon with pictures of the work I've done (I know, promises promises) and plans for what I'm going to do to the bike. In the mean time I'm going to make the old disc into a clock which should be fun.
Small update...
Got the chain and sprockets ordered, delivered and fitted there on valentines weekend. Stupid riveter I bought snapped though. Will post a full update and pics of what I got done (with the aul lad helping no less!) soon.
Also got new fork seals, brake fluid and front brake pads sorted courtesy of Tom @ TQSracing and he sorted out the riveting of the chain properly. Sound man, good prices too!
Have ordered EBC clutch plates and springs and am going to sort a clutch basket also. Cityspares say they have one for 40 euro but I'll have to bring the one in from the bike for comparison. I reckon I'll sort this and do a service (Oil, Oil Filter and Air Filter) all at the same time.
Keep watching for pics and more updates.
Also got new fork seals, brake fluid and front brake pads sorted courtesy of Tom @ TQSracing and he sorted out the riveting of the chain properly. Sound man, good prices too!
Have ordered EBC clutch plates and springs and am going to sort a clutch basket also. Cityspares say they have one for 40 euro but I'll have to bring the one in from the bike for comparison. I reckon I'll sort this and do a service (Oil, Oil Filter and Air Filter) all at the same time.
Keep watching for pics and more updates.
Sometimes there just aren't words...
Minor disaster this morning. Chain snapped just down the road from home. I had heard a snap and lost power. Then I revved the engine I could hear a rattle. First I thought it was the clutch cable but clutch action seemed fine. So I pulled in. All sorts of things start going through your head in a situation like that. I even though, "f**k I hope it's not a piston or something!"
Put the bike on it's stand and took a look. The chain was trailing behind the bike. Bike seems to be running fine but won't know if there's any serious damage until I get a look at it later on.
Yanked the chain out from the front sprocket and had to walk the bike home. Was sweating buckets by the time I got back and got into work an hour and a half late.
Will take a look later on to see what the story is with damage etc but at the very least I'll be replacing the chain. I'll possibly do the sprockets too while I'm at it.
Bugger anyway...
Put the bike on it's stand and took a look. The chain was trailing behind the bike. Bike seems to be running fine but won't know if there's any serious damage until I get a look at it later on.
Yanked the chain out from the front sprocket and had to walk the bike home. Was sweating buckets by the time I got back and got into work an hour and a half late.
Will take a look later on to see what the story is with damage etc but at the very least I'll be replacing the chain. I'll possibly do the sprockets too while I'm at it.
Bugger anyway...
Speedo cable
One of the days after work when the bike had been tampered with I noticed that the speedo was no longer working.
As it says in the Haynes, always look for the simplest cause for the problem. So I required a new speedo cable. None of the shops I called into had the cable I was looking for but the place I bought my first bike said they could get the cable in the next week. That was in December.
Until now I have been gauging my speed by looking at the rev counter and knowing what gear I'm in. For example, 4th gear @ 4,000rpm is about 60 km/h. Last week I bit the bullet and bought a new cable on ebay. It cost around 20 euro and was delivered this morning. Took 5 minutes to fit and now the speedo (not to mention the tripometer!) is working fine.
I'll take come photographs and do up a post on how to change the speedo cable soon.
As it says in the Haynes, always look for the simplest cause for the problem. So I required a new speedo cable. None of the shops I called into had the cable I was looking for but the place I bought my first bike said they could get the cable in the next week. That was in December.
Until now I have been gauging my speed by looking at the rev counter and knowing what gear I'm in. For example, 4th gear @ 4,000rpm is about 60 km/h. Last week I bit the bullet and bought a new cable on ebay. It cost around 20 euro and was delivered this morning. Took 5 minutes to fit and now the speedo (not to mention the tripometer!) is working fine.
I'll take come photographs and do up a post on how to change the speedo cable soon.
Quick update
So I haven't gotten the chance to do much with the bike in the last few weeks except for give it an occasional clean.
The weather has been altogether cack the last few weeks too so my lovely CB is fast becoming my dirty winter hack!
Have been ordering parts and have them all ready to go but just don't have the time and can't get the breaks to get them fitted. Currently in line are:
Going to have the brake pads done this week or else next week when I get paid. Would do these myself except on my daily driver I'd rather have something done professionally. Might replace the pads on the dt myself though (as soon as I get that project off the ground).
Hopefully getting a workshop sorted in the coming months. Until next time...
The weather has been altogether cack the last few weeks too so my lovely CB is fast becoming my dirty winter hack!
Have been ordering parts and have them all ready to go but just don't have the time and can't get the breaks to get them fitted. Currently in line are:
- New levers
- Clutch cable
- Brake pads - both front and rear
- an easy disconnect Fuel Coupling
- new coolant
Going to have the brake pads done this week or else next week when I get paid. Would do these myself except on my daily driver I'd rather have something done professionally. Might replace the pads on the dt myself though (as soon as I get that project off the ground).
Hopefully getting a workshop sorted in the coming months. Until next time...
GarageNight.tv
Just came across this website: http://www.garagenight.tv/. Haven't had an opportunity to look at the videos yet but I like the idea.
What I wouldn't give to have a workshop to do work on my bikes in... The carpark of an apartment block isn't the most ideal workplace! :-)
What I wouldn't give to have a workshop to do work on my bikes in... The carpark of an apartment block isn't the most ideal workplace! :-)
Used Bike Checklist
Just found this when I was sorting out some mail... It's from the maintenance course I did last year (2007).
Tyres:
- Thread depth (legal minimum of 1mm, in reality should be much more)
- Sidewall condition (check for cracks, rips, gouges or damage)
Wheels:
- Check for loose spokes (if applicable), flat spots and trueness (with each wheel raised, spin them). For the front wheel put the bike on the centre stand and get another person to lean on the back and for the rear it should be enough to have the bike on the centre stand. If there is no centre stand you can balance the bike on the side stand carefully and carry this out.
- Check bearings (with the wheel raised look for side to side movement)
Steering:
- Check headrace (with wheel raised pull back and forward on forks)
- Check control cables (check all for ease of movement and free play)
- Check fork seals (check for oil under and around seal covers)
- Check wheel alignment (run a chord or string from the front wheel to the rear)
Electrical system:
- Check electric start (engine should turn over quickly and start instantly)
- General electrics (check all lights [indicators, main beam, dipped beam, high beam, brake light, number plate light], horn, kill switch, passing light (if present), oil pressure light, neutral light)
- Charging system (with high beams on allow to idle, lights should brighten when revved)
Engine:
- Check engine oil level (oil should be filled to upper level)
- Check exhaust fumes (should be colourless if 4 stroke, slightly blue if a two stroke)
- Check engine noise (should be quiet with no chain or tapping like noises)
Drive system:
- Chain/sprockets (check chain tension and slack. Pull chain at back off rear sprocket [you shouldn't be able to do this!], check condition of sprocket teeth)
- Drive shaft (check for excess movement in wheel and whine when driven)
Brake systems:
- Hydraulic (check oil level, check pads for wear and check for oil leaks and freeness of wheel. there should be a slight brake drag.)
- Mechanical (check brake arm wear indicator, check brake cable for snapped strands and dragging)
Clutch system:
- Hydraulic (check oil levels and leaks, check for clutch drag and slipping)
- Mechanical (check cable for snapped strands, clutch drag and slipping)
Fuel system:
- Carbs/injectors (check for leaks and smell of fumes, start from cold with full choke, turn off choke and engine should idle)
This is by no means a complete list in my opinion but if you're buying a bike and all of these look good then chances are the bike is ok.
Tyres:
- Thread depth (legal minimum of 1mm, in reality should be much more)
- Sidewall condition (check for cracks, rips, gouges or damage)
Wheels:
- Check for loose spokes (if applicable), flat spots and trueness (with each wheel raised, spin them). For the front wheel put the bike on the centre stand and get another person to lean on the back and for the rear it should be enough to have the bike on the centre stand. If there is no centre stand you can balance the bike on the side stand carefully and carry this out.
- Check bearings (with the wheel raised look for side to side movement)
Steering:
- Check headrace (with wheel raised pull back and forward on forks)
- Check control cables (check all for ease of movement and free play)
- Check fork seals (check for oil under and around seal covers)
- Check wheel alignment (run a chord or string from the front wheel to the rear)
Electrical system:
- Check electric start (engine should turn over quickly and start instantly)
- General electrics (check all lights [indicators, main beam, dipped beam, high beam, brake light, number plate light], horn, kill switch, passing light (if present), oil pressure light, neutral light)
- Charging system (with high beams on allow to idle, lights should brighten when revved)
Engine:
- Check engine oil level (oil should be filled to upper level)
- Check exhaust fumes (should be colourless if 4 stroke, slightly blue if a two stroke)
- Check engine noise (should be quiet with no chain or tapping like noises)
Drive system:
- Chain/sprockets (check chain tension and slack. Pull chain at back off rear sprocket [you shouldn't be able to do this!], check condition of sprocket teeth)
- Drive shaft (check for excess movement in wheel and whine when driven)
Brake systems:
- Hydraulic (check oil level, check pads for wear and check for oil leaks and freeness of wheel. there should be a slight brake drag.)
- Mechanical (check brake arm wear indicator, check brake cable for snapped strands and dragging)
Clutch system:
- Hydraulic (check oil levels and leaks, check for clutch drag and slipping)
- Mechanical (check cable for snapped strands, clutch drag and slipping)
Fuel system:
- Carbs/injectors (check for leaks and smell of fumes, start from cold with full choke, turn off choke and engine should idle)
This is by no means a complete list in my opinion but if you're buying a bike and all of these look good then chances are the bike is ok.
